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how long do you guys let your little hound's look for the track after making a loose
Amen!! One of the biggest complaints I have in todays Field Trials is handlers and judges always wanting to get a fresh rabbit after a brief beakdown. It ruins your dogs and makes them unfit for hunting. Hunting dogs are supposed to keep looking for it until they recover it, thoroughly and gradually working their way out. Sometimes it takes awhile. I've had 20 minute checks before. Some will say they just found another rabbit, well so be it. At least my family wouldn't go hungry in hard times. Dogs that quit searching and stand around at a loss need to be picked up, not catered to.Until they find it!
AmenFor the person that started this post or any new comers to starting beagles below is what I do with newly started pups I start and I start lots of them every year for myself and many others.
This method works well for me where I start my pups.
This is not the only way.... but..... this (a way) that has served me well through the years and helped me set certain traits heavy in the dogs I breed, run and hunt.
First thing I.... DON'T DO.... is fall in love with any pups before they start. I fall in love with their performance after they start or not.
For me young newly started pups that have looses and.... CAN'T..... find them....are quickly rejected from further consideration at my house.
If a pup can't find his loose he don't have anything I want genetically...... period and is rejected.
Personally I don't care if he can learn to find it later on. I want that trait to be genetic, natural, bred in and automatic just like real jump dog hunt and grit.
If they can learn it later on good for them, they can go learn it with somebody else.
The reason for that is.... A pup that can't find his loss.....imo…. has other bigger issues....bred in.....that is causing this problem and all of those issues are totally unacceptable to me.
Pups that can't find a lose have genetic, bred in, bloodline, style, issues..... that I am not putting into my hounds for any reason period. Others may disagree that's ok....I don't care.
So
I only consider pups that can keep their rabbit going and going and going as soon as they start no matter how fast or slow that may be.
I pick pups born with the ability to instinctively and naturally do what is required mechanically to be a good rabbit dog first time out. As soon as they start. Certain basics mechanics have to be in place in plain site from the very beginning.
Loosing game is first and foremost unacceptable to me even for pups. If your good at finding a lose young then you will even better at that older. If your bad about loosing your rabbit young you will only get better at that. At my house learning means getting better at all the good things you were born doing correctly, automatically, naturally and instinctively from day 1 and already know how to do.
Pups that have to learn the basic mechanics are not well bred to me regardless of pedigree and are rejected.
Well bred animals perform well.... even as pups.
Animals that do not perform well at any age are not well bred to me no matter how impressive the pedigree appears to be.
Mitch
Do you have a certain age that you talking when you say “pups”. I agree with a lot of what your saying just curious on the age that you hold to this standard? ThanksFor the person that started this post or any new comers to starting beagles below is what I do with newly started pups I start and I start lots of them every year for myself and many others.
This method works well for me where I start my pups.
This is not the only way.... but..... this (a way) that has served me well through the years and helped me set certain traits heavy in the dogs I breed, run and hunt.
First thing I.... DON'T DO.... is fall in love with any pups before they start. I fall in love with their performance after they start or not.
For me young newly started pups that have looses and.... CAN'T..... find them....are quickly rejected from further consideration at my house.
If a pup can't find his loose he don't have anything I want genetically...... period and is rejected.
Personally I don't care if he can learn to find it later on. I want that trait to be genetic, natural, bred in and automatic just like real jump dog hunt and grit.
If they can learn it later on good for them, they can go learn it with somebody else.
The reason for that is.... A pup that can't find his loss.....imo…. has other bigger issues....bred in.....that is causing this problem and all of those issues are totally unacceptable to me.
Pups that can't find a lose have genetic, bred in, bloodline, style, issues..... that I am not putting into my hounds for any reason period. Others may disagree that's ok....I don't care.
So
I only consider pups that can keep their rabbit going and going and going as soon as they start no matter how fast or slow that may be.
I pick pups born with the ability to instinctively and naturally do what is required mechanically to be a good rabbit dog first time out. As soon as they start. Certain basics mechanics have to be in place in plain site from the very beginning.
Loosing game is first and foremost unacceptable to me even for pups. If your good at finding a lose young then you will even better at that older. If your bad about loosing your rabbit young you will only get better at that. At my house learning means getting better at all the good things you were born doing correctly, automatically, naturally and instinctively from day 1 and already know how to do.
Pups that have to learn the basic mechanics are not well bred to me regardless of pedigree and are rejected.
Well bred animals perform well.... even as pups.
Animals that do not perform well at any age are not well bred to me no matter how impressive the pedigree appears to be.
Mitch